Berry Tiramisù

(from Schnucks Cooks, Spring 2013)  

I have made this wonderful dessert twice this spring, once using ladyfingers and another time using angel food cake (premade from the grocery store and sliced for layering).  My husband likes the angel food version better, but both got rave reviews from our friends.  I also use orange juice rather than liqueur to make the simple syrup in step 2, and had ample leftovers to use for other purposes.

4 packages (6 oz. each) fresh blueberries (about 4 ¾ cups), divided

4 packages (6 oz. each) fresh raspberries (about 5 ½ cups), divided

2 packages (16 oz. each) fresh strawberries, hulled and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices (about 6 cups), divided

1 2/3 c. sugar, divided

1/2 c. berry liqueur (such as Chambord), orange-flavored liqueur (such as triple sec), or orange juice

1/2 c. water

1 ½ c. whipping cream

2 packages (8 oz. each) mascarpone cheese, at room temperature

3 packages (3 oz. each) sponge-style ladyfingers [I have also used sliced angel food cake]

1.       In 12-inch skillet, add 2 packages blueberries, 2 packages raspberries, 3 cups sliced strawberries, and 1/3 cup of sugar.  Cook berry mixture over medium-high heat 25 to 30 minutes or until mixture becomes thick and reaches a jam-like consistency, stirring frequently during last 10 minutes of cooking.  Remove skillet from heat.  Transfer jam to medium bowl.  Cover and refrigerate at least two hours or up to two days ahead.  You should have about 3 cups.

2.       Meanwhile, in small saucepan, add 1 cup sugar, liqueur and water; heat to boiling over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally until sugar dissolves.  Remove saucepan from heat.  Allow mixture to cool slightly.

3.       In large bowl, toss remaining blueberries, raspberries, and sliced strawberries until combined.

4.       In large bowl, with mixer on low speed, beat cream and remaining 1/3 cup sugar until cream thickens.  Increase speed and beat until stiff peaks form.  Add mascarpone and fold with rubber spatula just until well combined.  Makes about 5 cups.  [In my experience it’s okay to beat in the mascarpone with electric mixer.  EH]

5.       Place 13 x 9-inch glass or ceramic baking dish horizontally in front of you.  Arrange 1 ½ packages ladyfingers, flat side down, vertically (perpendicular) in 3 long rows across bottom of dish.  Brush ladyfingers liberally with half of liqueur [or orange juice] mixture.

6.       Spread half of berry jam (about 1 ½ cups) over ladyfingers.  Dollop about 2 ½ cups mascarpone mixture over jam, then spread to cover.  (It is okay if some jam swirls into mascarpone mixture.)  Top with half of fresh berries, about 3 cups.  (Cover and refrigerate remaining berries to use after chilling.)  Repeat layering with remaining ladyfingers, brushing with liqueur mixture.  Top with remaining berry jam and mascarpone mixture.  Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or up to 1 day ahead.  Top with remaining fresh berries just before serving.  Cut tiramisu lengthwise into 4 slices, then cut each slice crossways into 5 pieces.  Makes 20 servings.

Each serving:  about 340 calories; 17 g. total fat (10 g. saturated), 84 mg. cholesterol, 34 mg. sodium, 39 g. carbohydrate, 4 g. fiber, 26 g. sugars, 3 g. protein.

Dinner in Woodstock: A Tribute to My Grandmother

Since my subject is the old-timey menu served up today by my 98-year-old grandmother, I’m using the word “dinner” in the old-fashioned sense of the midday meal. My grandmother, Mescal Hornbeck, who will turn 99 in June, honored my visit with a highly genteel and refined luncheon with four of her closest friends, plus the fiancé of one of the ladies. The theme of the menu was food from her childhood, and so we had Oyster Stew and Indian Pudding. Those members of the party who were over 60 – three of our guests, as well as Mescal herself – recognized right away just what she was trying to do here, saying they hadn’t had either of these dishes in ages.

Grandma Mescal was born in 1911 in West Shokan, a rural outpost in upstate New York. She has lived in New York most of her life, except for a period spent in Lexington, Kentucky, for my grandfather’s career. (That’s how I come to have a family from Kentucky and a family from New York.) Bemoaning the demise of oyster stew in popularity, she says that oyster stew used to be “the big thing” served at “all the restaurants all around the country.” When I suggested that perhaps it was a northeastern thing, she said, “You wouldn’t know, you’re too young to remember.” (This is one thing I love about my grandmother, she always reminds me how young I am!)

Indian pudding, well, maybe it has a more PC name nowadays, but I’ve never tasted it before by this or any other name. It was tasty, and reminded me of my great-grandmother’s puddings I used to have as a child.

Grandma Mescal talks a lot about how different things are from when she was growing up, which is endlessly fascinating. It’s remarkable that she has such detailed memories of so many of her past experiences. She tells me that “a woman 50 years ago wouldn’t have been caught half dead” serving string beans dry scattered around on a plate and only half cooked; veggies were cooked until they were "DONE - not mushy" and served in their juices, and you often had a sauce with them, based on milk being added to the cooking juices to bring out the flavor. “A lot of things tasted better then than they do now,” according to Grandma; there’s no denying that cooking styles and tastes have changed considerably.

After dinner I served a bowl of my candied walnuts that I had made for Mescal, and her friends honored me by saying I had inherited my grandmother's love of cooking. Thank goodness for good genes.

Grandma Mescal’s Oyster Stew

Quantities are determined by the number of people dining. Start with at least 5 oysters per person (6 or 7 per person on average), and the oysters have to be FRESH! Get them shucked specially for you. Grandma thinks the ones that come pre-shucked in the market (which are much cheaper) aren’t worth spit.

Cook the oysters and their juice in the top of a hot double boiler, cooking them just until the edges get a little crinkly – not very long.

Meanwhile heat your milk – about two ladles full per person – and add a chunk of butter and some salt and pepper. For the milk you can use whole milk, two percent, half-and-half, or whatever you like.

Then pour the oysters into the milk and get it warm, but you MUST be sure you DON’T BOIL THE OYSTERS! There’s nothing worse than overcooked oysters.

That’s all there is to it!

Indian Pudding

Mix 5 Tablespoons stone-ground corn meal to 1 quart of cold milk; scald the milk, then cook in the top of a double boiler 20 minutes. Then add 2 Tablespoons of butter, 5 oz. molasses, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 2 eggs well beaten. Turn into buttered pudding dish [she used a glass loaf pan] and pour 1 cup cold milk over mixture.

Bake 1 hour in moderate 350 degree oven. Delicious served with vanilla ice cream. Servings: 8.

(The recipe called for a cup of molasses, but Mescal thought this was way too much; she used just over half a cup and it had a very nice flavor.)

Pear Tart - Outstanding!!!!

John Evelev served us this pear tart for dessert recently, and I swear to you, it was the best dessert I've eaten in a long, long time! The recipe comes from Bistro Cooking by Patricia Wells. For the pastry dough, John used ready-made (uncooked) dough from the grocery store and it was as good as a homemade pastry crust. Patricia writes:

Like an authentic tart Tatin, the pear version consists of nothing but well-caramelized pears and a layer of thin pastry. The pears should remain in huge chunks, making for an honest, rustic tart. The clear glass baking dish allows you to see if any pears are sticking as you turn out the tart. This may seem like a lot of pears for a single tart, but they cook down quickly.

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
7 to 8 firm pears (about 2 3/4 pounds; 1.75 kg), preferably Bosc or Anjou, peeled, quartered and cored
1/2 c. (100 g.) sugar
1 recipe of pastry dough
1 cup of crème fraîche or sour cream, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (220 Celsius).

2. Melt the butter in a deep 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the pears and sugar. Cook, stirring carefully from time to time so the pears and sugar do not stick, 20 minutes. Increase the heat to high and cook until the pears and sugar are a deep, golden brown, about 15 more minutes. (If you are like me, the urge will be to stop the cooking a bit soon, so it doesn’t burn. But the tart will be much prettier and taste better if you take the time to allow the pears to run a true golden brown.) Shake the pan from time to time, and watch carefully to be sure that the pears and sugar do not burn. (If you do not have a pan large enough to cook all of the pears, cook them in 2 smaller pans, dividing the ingredients in half.)

3. Literally pile the pears into an unbuttered round 10 1/2-inch (27 cm.) clear glass baking dish or a special tin-lined copper tart Tatin pan.

4. Roll out the pastry dough slightly larger than the dish. Place the pastry on top of the pears, tucking a bit of the dough around the edges and down into the dish. You do not need to prick the dough.

5. Place the tart into the center of the oven and bake until the pears bubble and the pastry is a deep, golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes.

6. Remove the tart from the oven and immediately place a large, flat heatproof serving platter top-side down on top of the baking dish or pan. Invert the pan and give the bottom a firm tap, to release any pears that may be sticking to the bottom. Slowly release the baking dish, so the tart falls evenly onto the serving platter. Serve warm or at room temperature, passing a bowl of rich crème fraîche to spoon over the tart.

7. Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

Ines' Fabulous Almond Cake

Finally, before I sign off tonight, I'm going to post the most-requested recipe in my repertoire. EVERY time I make this, at least one person asks for the recipe (usually more). It's from my friend Ines, whose dessert-making skills are legendary. Everyone who's had the pleasure of dining at her house agrees that she's the best cook in Columbia.

This cake is not only super-delicious, it's SUPER easy to make. I almost always keep at least one can of Solo brand pure almond paste in the cupboard in case I need to make a tasty dessert in a pinch.

1 stick of butter, soft
3/4 cup sugar
8 oz. almond paste (e.g. Solo brand)

Blend together until smooth. Beat in:

Orange and lemon zest (I usually omit this)
3 eggs, one at a time
vanilla
1/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder

Generously butter and flour an 8-inch cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.

(The tricky thing about this recipe is the 8-inch cake pan, which might not be standard equipment in your kitchen. I know I only used to have 9-inch cake pans, until I started making my chocolate grappa cake several years back, which required an 8-inch pan. It's kind of a specialty item, though not as specialized as, say, a 20-inch cake pan, which I only just acquired last year. And while I'm on the subject of pans, does it seem to you that they travel in pairs? I mean, when I got my 8-inch cake pans, just like my 9-inch cake pans, I bought two. My mother always had pairs of cake pans, so that's what I did. Most layer cakes are just two layers. But recently I wanted to make a cake recipe that called for three 8-inch layers and I was out of luck because I never anticipated that I might need three such pans.)